How to Identify Civil War Tokens (Fuld Numbers Explained)
To identify a Civil War token, first confirm what it is (a privately made, cent-sized piece struck mostly between 1861 and 1864, not a federal coin), then attribute it with a Fuld number. The Fuld system, built by Melvin and George Fuld, assigns every known variety a code that tells you the design, the dies, and the metal. Learning how to read those codes is the difference between guessing and knowing exactly what you hold. This guide walks through both steps, from telling a token apart from a real cent to writing out a full Fuld number like 207/409a or NY-630-BD.
Key takeaways
- A Civil War token is a privately made cent-sized piece (about 19mm) that circulated in the North from roughly 1861 to 1864 as a substitute for the scarce federal cent.
- The Fuld system, created by Melvin and George Fuld, gives every variety a code: patriotic tokens use an obverse-die/reverse-die number plus a metal letter, and store cards use a state-city-merchant code.
- The metal letter matters: a means copper, b means brass, and f means silver, with other letters covering nickel, German silver, white metal, and tin.
- Attribution drives value because a single Fuld-number or metal difference can separate a common $30 token from a scarce piece worth hundreds.
First, Confirm It Is Actually a Civil War Token
A Civil War token is a privately minted, cent-sized piece (roughly 19mm) that circulated in the Northern states during the war as an unofficial stand-in for the federal cent. Before you reach for any catalog, make sure that is what you have.
Check three things. The size should be close to a small cent, about 19mm across. The date, when present, should fall in the 1861 to 1864 window, with most struck in 1863. The design should look private rather than federal: patriotic slogans such as "The Union Must and Shall Be Preserved," flags, eagles, an Indian head, or a merchant's name and city. Many carry the phrase "NOT ONE CENT," a deliberate dodge of laws against imitating U.S. coinage.
That last point separates a token from a genuine cent. A real Indian Head cent reads "ONE CENT" and carries U.S. Mint devices. A token that says "NOT ONE CENT" or advertises a private business is not federal money. Watch the date too: a cent-sized copper piece dated after 1864 is almost certainly a later trade token or advertising piece, not a Civil War token. For a fuller background, see the Civil War tokens guide.
The Two Families Fuld Numbers Cover
The Fuld system splits Civil War tokens into two catalogs: patriotic tokens and store cards. Knowing which family you are in decides how the number is written.
A patriotic token carries a slogan or patriotic design and no merchant name. A store card is a Civil War token that advertises a private business, so it names a merchant and usually a city and state. A third type, the sutler token issued to army-camp merchants, is far rarer and is handled within the store-card literature. Deciding patriotic versus store card is your first branch point, because each family uses a completely different numbering format explained below. You can go deeper on each in the patriotic Civil War tokens and Civil War store cards guides.
How to Read a Patriotic Fuld Number
A patriotic Fuld number identifies the two dies that struck the token plus its metal, written as obverse-die/reverse-die and a metal letter. An example is Fuld 207/409a, meaning obverse die 207, reverse die 409, struck in copper (the a).
To attribute a patriotic piece, match each side to a cataloged die. The obverse die number comes first, the reverse die number second, separated by a slash. The trailing letter records the metal. So 207/409a and 207/409b would be the same design pairing struck in two different metals, and collectors treat them as distinct varieties. Getting both die numbers right is what lets you look up the correct rarity and value rather than a near match.
How to Read a Store Card Fuld Number
A store card Fuld number is geographic: it encodes state, city, merchant, and often a die and metal suffix. A common form is NY-630-BD, which reads New York, Fuld city number 630 (New York City), merchant code BD.
Read it left to right. The two-letter state abbreviation comes first, then the Fuld city number, then the merchant's letter code. A further die or metal letter (such as a) may follow to pin down the exact die pairing and composition. Because New York City is Fuld city 630 and by far the most common source of store cards, you will see the 630 code often. Scarcer states and cities carry a premium, which is covered in the Civil War token rarity scale guide.
The Metal-Letter Suffix
The final letter in a Fuld number records the metal the token was struck in, and it can change the value sharply. Copper is by far the most common, so off-metal strikes in silver or white metal are prized by specialists.
Stick to what the catalogs confirm and do not guess beyond it. The letters a, b, and f are the ones to memorize; the remaining letters cover nickel, German silver, white metal, tin, and similar compositions. If you cannot tell brass from copper by eye, weigh the piece or compare color under good light before committing to a letter. Composition detail is expanded in the Civil War token metals guide.
| Letter | Metal | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| a | Copper (bronze) | The most common composition by far |
| b | Brass | Yellower tone than copper |
| f | Silver | Scarce off-metal, commands a premium |
| Other letters | Nickel, German silver, white metal, tin, and similar | Confirm against a catalog rather than guessing |
The Reference Books and the CWTS
Two standard Fuld references cover the field, and both come from the Civil War Token Society. They are the books to check a number against, not a website guess.
The patriotic catalog and the store-card catalog together list the die numbers, city codes, merchant codes, and rarity ratings you need to finish an attribution. The Civil War Token Society, founded in 1967, publishes these references and maintains the R-1 to R-10 rarity scale that everyone quotes. For general background and images, the Wikipedia entry on Civil War tokens is a reasonable starting point. When you want a certified opinion on grade and authenticity, third-party graders such as PCGS slab and attribute these pieces.
A Step-by-Step Attribution Workflow
The fastest path to a correct Fuld number is to work in order: type, dies or legends, metal, then rarity. Skipping steps is how people land on the wrong variety.
Step one, decide the type: patriotic (slogan, no merchant) or store card (merchant name and city). Step two, match the details. For a patriotic token, identify the obverse and reverse dies. For a store card, read off the state, city, and merchant. Step three, assign the metal letter from the key above. Step four, look up the completed number in the correct Fuld reference to get the rarity rating and a value range. A worked example: a token showing a flag with "THE FLAG OF OUR UNION" and, on the reverse, the Dix legend ending "SHOOT HIM ON THE SPOT" is a patriotic type, commonly copper (an a metal letter), and usually a common rarity. Confirm the exact die pairing in the book before you settle on the number.
If you are stacking many pieces or valuing an inheritance, a professional can save hours. Browse tokens and medals specialists or a numismatic appraiser for a second opinion.
Why Attribution Matters for Value
Attribution matters because a single Fuld-number or metal difference can move a token from common to scarce, and from tens of dollars to hundreds. The number is not trivia; it is the pricing key.
Common patriotic tokens and store cards (rarity R-1 to R-3) generally run about $15 to $40 in circulated grades, with attractive uncirculated examples higher. Scarcer varieties, off-metal silver strikes, and sought-after merchants climb into the hundreds or low thousands. Because the same design in a different metal, or a near-identical die pairing, can sit in a very different rarity tier, writing the full and correct Fuld number is what protects you from overpaying or underselling. When you are ready to buy or sell, a rare coin dealer who knows Civil War tokens is worth seeking out.
Frequently asked questions
How do I tell a Civil War token from a real Indian Head cent?+
A federal cent reads "ONE CENT" and carries U.S. Mint devices. A Civil War token is private: it often reads "NOT ONE CENT," carries a patriotic slogan, or advertises a merchant, and it is dated (when dated at all) between 1861 and 1864.
What does the number after the slash mean in a patriotic Fuld number?+
In a patriotic number like 207/409a, the first number is the obverse die, the number after the slash is the reverse die, and the trailing letter is the metal. Both die numbers must match the catalog for the attribution to be correct.
What does NY-630 mean on a store card?+
NY is the state (New York) and 630 is the Fuld city number for New York City. Letters that follow are the merchant code and, sometimes, a die or metal letter. New York City is the most common store-card source, so 630 appears often.
Which metal letters should I memorize?+
Learn a for copper, b for brass, and f for silver. Other letters cover nickel, German silver, white metal, tin, and similar compositions, which are better confirmed against a Fuld reference than guessed by eye.
Where can I look up a Fuld number?+
Use the two standard Fuld references published by the Civil War Token Society, one for patriotic tokens and one for store cards. They list the die numbers, city and merchant codes, and rarity ratings you need to finish an attribution.
Is it legal to own Civil War tokens?+
Yes. Owning and collecting Civil War tokens is and always has been legal. Their private issue as one-cent substitutes was outlawed in 1864, which ended production, but they are not legal tender and are collected freely today.